Tears flowed at the New York Fashion Week show of Brandon Maxwell when his mom accompanied him on the runway for his bow. Pam Woolley has had a rough go of it lately. She was diagnosed with breast cancer after her son’s show last season. This time around, he dedicated the show to her and strong women everywhere. “It really is sort of the physical manifestation of, I think, the strength that I saw her display over the past few months,” Maxwell told The Associated Press, alluding to her health struggles.

The clothes also embodied the polished elegance he is known for, and a simplicity he needed in his life. Maxwell is coming out of an especially busy time. He’s a judge on the revived “Project Runway” in addition to a busy designer who has dressed Lady Gaga and Meghan Markle. His desire now is to “strip everything back.”

His collection ranged from pantsuits with plunging necklines and caped sleeves to full-bodied skirts that sweep to the ground and cinch at the waist. He designed in black and white and monochrome for some looks. A black sports bra with a keyhole was worn under a sleek black blazer trimmed with satin. There were cinched white coats worn over white skirts barely visible from underneath. Maxwell also showed black-and-white leopard print dresses with a subtle “B” hidden in the pattern.