A Floral Fresco
It was not a surprise to see floral prints and motifs dominate the first day of the Amazon India Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2018 (AIFW18) that kicked off at the Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium in Delhi on March 14. The trend of a brighter form had been visible in the Spring-Summer November edition of the fashion week as well. Dark set colours, such as black, deep navy blue and mud brown made their presence felt on the runway, with bright floral motifs and prints breaking the monotony. The interpretations of the patterns and motifs varied — from the usual prints to silhouettes.
Designer duo Shyamal and Bhumika invoked a French touch for their collection titled “A Parisian Symphony”. It had velvet and silk skirts in autumnal hues of forest green, blue and black, embellished with sequins and beadwork. The saris featured a lot of organza for dramatic effect. Adarsh Gill, presented a confounding eveningwear line — supposedly inspired by the likes of Sophia Loren and Audrey Hepburn — with a grandmotherly interpretation of floral prints.
The floral symphony continued with #sadaksmart, a collection by Abraham and Thakore. Inspired by the streets of the National Capital Region, they used floral prints that were a throwback to the luxurious chintz patterns, which were de rigeur in India in the 18th-19th century. Leaves and flowers in rich reds, blues and greens against a background of blue and white, were used in casual and streetwear style. Salwars, loose-fitted pants, trench coats paired with jumpsuits set the tone for the very street-savvy collection. “Our streets are so full of colour. Only in India, will you see a woman wearing a fully sequined sari and sitting on the back of a motorcycle,” said David Abraham, one half of the label.
While the colour palette leaned towards navy blue, blacks and golden brown, beige was often used in the form of jackets, tops and trousers to set off the darker shades and print. The humble gamchha, too, made an appearance and was used as a sash and a scarf to add drama to the collection. The collection featured a lot of colour — reds, dark olive green and golden brown — a sort of first from their label, who are known for their otherwise monochromatic palette.
The final show of the day was a joint presentation by Ashish N Soni and Gauri and Nainika, with actor Vaani Kapoor as the showstopper. Lean fitted trousers, paired with sleek jackets, see-through tulle gowns and glamourous body con dresses were the takeaways from the show. Monochrome was the dominant feature, with silver sequined floral motifs embellishing the otherwise powerful and stark collection. Using a bold and sexy theme with heavy James Bond influences — including the soundtrack — the last show of the day was an ode to powerful women. Large magnified floral motifs were placed on the dresses to give them a floral tweak and even the over-the-top ruffled sleeves of the gowns reminded one of a flower.